Gernot Allnoch, co-founder of Mezcal San Cosme, has a mission: to share the authentic spirit of Mexico with the world. Growing up immersed in Mexican culture, Gernot, along with partners Erik Lozano and José Julián Carrera, recognized the prevalence of European clichés about Mexico. They saw mezcal, a traditional Mexican spirit, as the perfect ambassador to showcase the richness and complexity of contemporary Mexico. Thus, Mezcal San Cosme was born in 2011, a testament to the depth and diversity of Mexican heritage.
We spoke with Gernot and he was kind enough to give us his insight and write a “beyond the bottle” insight with us about tradition, sustainability, and the vital role of animals. Let's delve into the heart of mezcal production and explore the fascinating relationship between mezcaleros and their four-legged companions.
The Power of the Tahona: Where Mules and Mezcal Meet
Central to traditional mezcal production is the "tahona," a large stone wheel used to crush roasted agave hearts. This crucial step prepares the agave fibers for fermentation, ensuring maximum contact with yeast. But what powers this ancient mill? Often, it's the strength of mules, horses, and sometimes even donkeys or oxen.
These animals, strong and intelligent, pull the massive stone in a circular motion, grinding the agave into a pulp. This practice, likely introduced by the Spanish in the 1500s, has become a cherished part of the mezcal-making tradition. "There are no special Mezcal animals," Gernot explains. "The mainly used horses just have to be strong and clever as they have to learn special signals to know when they have to pull and when to stop so the mezcalero can rearrange the fibers in the mill."
The Modern Dilemma: Tradition vs. Technology
As the mezcal industry evolves, producers are exploring alternatives to animal-powered tahonas. Mechanical drives, using tractors or engines, offer a potential solution. Some larger producers may even use shredders, like in some tequila production, which avoids the tahona process altogether.
Pros and Cons of Mechanical Alternatives:
● Vegan Production: Mechanical drives eliminate animal involvement, a plus for those seeking vegan mezcal.
● Animal Welfare: It reduces the need to care for animals, addressing concerns about potential mistreatment.
● Scalability: Mechanical options offer increased efficiency for larger productions, especially when powered by sustainable energy like solar. ● Cost: The long term cost of animal care versus the cost of maintaining machinery must be considered.
● Taste Impact: Using a shredder, rather than a tahona, will change the taste of the Mezcal, as the smoke flavor will be greatly reduced.
However, Gernot emphasizes that using a mechanical drive for the tahona itself does not impact the quality or taste of the Mezcal.
A Changing Landscape: Animal Welfare in the Mezcal World
Gernot believes that most mezcaleros genuinely care for their animals, recognizing them as essential partners. "At the end they are working partners. If they cannot work, no Mezcal can be produced," he states.
He highlights the existence of mezcal horse competitions, where producers share knowledge about animal care and well-being. Furthermore, increased tourism has brought greater scrutiny to animal welfare, prompting producers to prioritize ethical treatment.
While Gernot anticipates a gradual shift towards mechanization in larger mezcal productions, he acknowledges the enduring role of animals in smaller, remote palenques. "An animal can walk to remote places, a tractor or a machine always needs a road to get somewhere," he points out.
Looking Ahead:
The story of mezcal is a story of tradition, innovation, and the delicate balance between human, animal, and the environment. As the industry continues to grow, it's crucial to prioritize sustainable practices and ethical treatment of all involved, ensuring that the rich heritage of mezcal endures for generations to come.
